World's first
and largest manufacturer of Electric Staplers since 1949!
General Repair Manual and Parts List for STAPLEX®
Model SJM-1N
Series Electric Staplers with “pop-out” loading
Note: Always unplug machine
before servicing or attempting repairs.
Keep fingers, hair,
jewelry, etc. away from moving parts.
Remove all staples before
working on machine.
Diagrams of
JM-22N Stapling Head for Model SJM-1N
Use LOW setting when stapling the equivalent of just
a few sheets of 20# bond paper to reduce wear on parts.
Use STAPLEX Type DS High Speed
Staples for best results and to avoid jamming and damage to
stapling mechanism.
If machine becomes sluggish, the
Solenoid Coil may be overheated. Use a backup machine for the rest
of the shift.
Avoid using long/thin extension
cords, which may reduce voltage to the electrical components.
Never activate the Solenoid Coil
without the plunger and stapling head in place, for safety and to
avoid burning out the coil.
The Rubber Bumper [#JM-N-134 Fig.5] on the
bottom brass part of the Solenoid Plunger [#JM-N-133] must slide on
Top Plate [#JM-N-17 Fig.2] on a coating of grease. (See 1A below)
Table of Contents
1) To remove Stapling Head: Section
IIC
2) To perform routine lubrication:
Section I
3) To replace Shoulder Screw:
Section III
4) Weak power to Solenoid and
Plunger: Section IV
5) Electrical Diagnosis: Section V
-------------------------------------------------------------
I.
LUBRICATION MAINTENANCE CHECKS TO KEEP MACHINES STAPLING
UNIFORMLY
A)
Remove Front Cover [#JM-N-12 Fig. 1D] by removing the 4 front
Cover Screws [#316A Figs.JM-N-1A & JM-N-1C]. Observe if the Plunger
Bottom Bumper [#JM-N-134 Fig.5] is riding on a film of grease over
the Stapling Head Top Plate [#JM-N-17 Fig.2 Grease Point A] by
pushing down on Upper Door [#JM-N-21] while holding up Bumper
[#JM-N-134]. The bumper should be firmly held onto Plunger
[#JM-N-133]. If Brass Screw [#JM-N-315 Fig.5] is showing or plunger
rubber bumper is worn, replace the bumper. Add a generous coating
of any medium grease on Top Plate [#JM-N-17 ]with extra grease
applied to Bumper [#JM-N-134] in the recess. You cannot
over-grease.
B) At this time, pop out Staple
Track and grease behind Door [#JM-N-220 grease point B, Fig.2]. If
stapling head is already out of the housing, check Grease Point C at
Z-shaped Door Lock Bracket [#JM-N- 226] bottom. Otherwise, this
lubrication can be deferred until head is serviced.
C) Lubricate with some grease and
a few drops of oil the entire area above and around the Driver Blade
[#JM-N-25] and Drive Bar [#JM-N-36] shown in Figures 3 and 4. Drive
Bar[#JM-N-36] is behind Driver Blade [#JM-N-25] and the oil should
be dropped down all around the Bar and Blade.
II. ALIGNING THE CLINCHER DIE
A) First check that the three Bottom Stapler Head Mounting Screws
[#JM-N-308 Fig.lB] are not over-tightened. You will notice that
turning the front screw raises and lowers the Clincher Die [#JM-N-32
Fig.2] which also changes the alignment. Find a “sweetspot” setting
for the Clincher Die for the type of jobs you run. This works in
95% of all cases. To prevent the screw from rotating you can coat
the threads with a medium strength threadlock glue before
tightening.
B) Further alignment can be made by
moving the entire Midsection (Fig.2) position relative to the
Clincher Die.
This will correct left to right
lateral play and bring the Driver Blade directly in the center of
the Clincher Die.
First remove Stapling Head as follows
in C below.
C) Remove Front Cover (see Section
IA above). Then remove Stapling Head (Fig.2) by removing the three
screws [#JM-N-308 Fig.lB]. Loosen the Contact Adjusting Knob
[#JM-N-15 Fig.1] and tilt the Contact Frame [#JM-N-232 Fig.3] so
Microswitch Lever is horizontal. This way it will not drag on the
Head as you pull the Head out. Hold onto the Plunger [#JM-N-133
Fig.5] while sliding the Head out. Open the door to remove staples
by depressing Lock [#JM-N-226 Fig.2]. Check again by closing Door
and depressing Top Plate [#JM-N-17 Fig.2]. All staples should now be
ejected.
D) Check Clincher Die alignment
precisely. Place a screwdriver blade behind Clincher Die [#JM-N-32
Fig.2] to act as a wedge. Push down on Top Plate [#JM-N-17]. The
Driver Blade [#JM-N-25] should be centered: equidistant left to
right and front to back in the Clincher Die. If there is too much
lateral play (Midsection [# JM-N-23] wobbles left and right badly
enough that the driver blade touches either the left or right edge
of Clincher Die, swing open the Midsection [#JM-N-23 ] and tighten a
vice grip over both left and right Rail Supports [#JM-N-224]. (Right
Rail is visible in Fig.2). Squeeze gradually. Test by returning
Midsection to closed position. Stapling Head should not have play,
but bounce back freely. If over-tightened, you may open up left or
right rail with a long nose plier until Driver Blade is centered.
E) If the above adjustments do not
help to center the Driver Blade, it may be necessary to reset the
Rail Supports [#JM-N-224]. Lift up Midsection [#JM-N-23 Fig.2].
Gradually loosen the 6 Base Rail Support Screws [#JM-N-305] only
enough so the Left and Right Rail Supports move when tapped with a
hammer and screwdriver edge. Flip back the Midsection and check
until Driver Blade is centered in Clincher Die as described above in
Section D. Retighten the six screws. Make fine tune adjustment by
squeezing with a vice-grip as described above in D.
III. REPLACING DRIVE BAR IF
SHOULDER SCREW SHEARS OFF
If Shoulder Screw [#JM-N-19 Fig.4]
has sheared off and cannot be removed with a screwdriver, remove it
with a vice-grip. If it has cracked inside Drive Bar [#JM-N-36],
access the Drive Bar by removing Top Plate Screw [#JM-N-120 Fig.2].
Lift out the Drive Bar and insert a new Drive Bar into Upper Door
with Oval [#JM-N-21]. Be sure the side with the counterbored hole
is facing front. With Plunger Spring [#JM-N-28 Fig.3] in place,
screw down the Top Plate. Line up counter-bored threaded hole in
drive bar with hole in Driver Blade and screw in a Shoulder Screw.
A small amount of temporary threadlock glue is recommended but not
necessary.
IV. REPAIR TIPS
A) If reduced power is a
problem, before checking electrical systems (described in the next
section), check that the Plunger Top Bumper [#JM-N-138] is attached
to Bracket [#JM-N-137 Fig.5], and that no foreign matter is wedged
between Solenoid Coil [#JM-N-132] and Plunger [#JM-N-133].
B) If staples are not clinching
properly, there may be loose staples lodged under Elevating Spring
[#JM-N-150 Fig. 2]. This will prevent the full downward motion of
the Stapling Head because the elevating spring will be too stiff.
Swing open the Midsection and remove loose staples with a pair of
tweezers.
V. ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
DIAGNOSTICS
The following Components List and Wiring
Schedule are provided for use of KNOWLEDGEABLE service personnel for
troubleshooting. Always unplug machine from outlet when working on
machine. Do NOT activate machine UNLESS BOTH the Solenoid Plunger
and Stapling Head are in place for safety, and to prevent damage to
the Solenoid Coil.
Electrical Components
Microswitch
Solid State Electronic Module
Hi/Off/Low Rocker Switch
3-wire conductor cord set assembly
Solenoid Coil
Main Line Fuse
In-line microfuses for wire leads of the Solenoid Coil
A) The MICROSWITCH [#JM-N-130] wire
leads are color-coded
Yellow (Common)
Green (Normally Open)
Blue (Normally
Closed)
Unplug machine and check continuity with a
Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM). If Microswitch gives erratic readings or none
at all, replace Microswitch.
B) The SOLID STATE ELECTRONIC MODULE
[#JM-N-135] is numerically coded according to the scheme which
follows. It cannot be tested with a meter. To check, put machine
completely together and test by stapling pages normally.
El – GREEN : to Green Microswitch wire
E2 – YELLOW : to Yellow Microswitch wire
E3 – BLUE : to Blue Microswitch wire
E4 – RED : to middle position of Hi/Off/Low Switch
E5 – BLACK : to main line Fuse Holder.
(The
other side of Fuse Holder is connected to Black Cordset Wire.)
E6 – WHITE : to White Cordset wire, joined together with the
White Solenoid Coil wire.
C) SOLENOID COIL [#JM-N-132 Fig.5]
VOM Resistance testing is done
without power, therefore, unplug machine. Later, when repairs to
Solenoid Coil are complete and power test is run, do NOT activate
Solenoid Coil UNLESS BOTH the plunger and Stapling Head are in place
for safety, and to prevent damage to the Solenoid Coil.
NOTE: The BLUE Solenoid Coil wire
lead is the LOW lead but is wired to the Top Position stamped “1” on
the Rocker Switch. This is due to the internal mechanics of double
throw switches.
NOTE: The GREEN Solenoid Coil wire
lead is the HI lead but is wired to the Bottom Position stamped “3”
on the Rocker Switch. This is due to the internal mechanics of
double throw switches.
NOTE: The WHITE Solenoid Coil wire
lead is the Common lead and is joined with the White Cordset wire.
Together they are connected to the Solid State Electronic Module tab
marked E6.
If you wish to verify the Solenoid
Coil readings, conduct a VOM test without power. You will need a
very accurate, calibrated VOM. The reading across the White and
Blue leads is approximately 7.4 Ohms; and across the White and Green
Leads is approximately 4.2 ohms.
This concludes the basic repair manual
for SJM-1N series staplers. If you have any questions, please
contact Staplex at 1-800/221-0822 (718-768-3333 in NYS or outside
USA), Fax inquiries to 718/965-0750, or E-mail to info@staplex.com
PARTS LIST FOR STAPLEX® MODEL
SJM-1N SERIES ELECTRIC STAPLER
JM-N-11 Housing (Steel) Main frame
clamshell
JM-N-12 Front cover with Staplex logo
and top grill
JM-N-13 Rear cover with push rod
hole
JM-N-14A Round toggle On/Off/Low
Switch
JM-N-14B Rectangular On/Off/Low
Rocker Switch
JM-N-15 Adjusting Knob
JM-N-17 Drive Bar Top Plate
JM-N-18 Rubber Suction Foot
JM-N-19 Shoulder Screw
JM-N-21 Upper Door with oval,
inverted gull wing design, and four (4) through holes for #5-40
screws
JM-N-22 Stapling Head
complete with base
JM-N-23 Stapling Head
Midsection (no base)
JM-N-25 Driver Blade
JM-N-26 Top Plate Spacer Bumpers (set
of 2)
JM-N-27 Bottom Drive
Bar Impact Bumpers (set of 2)
JM-N-28 Plunger Spring
JM-N-30 Stapling Head
Base with clincher die and satin cover
JM-N-32 Clincher die
(anvil with two wells)
JM-N-34 Lower rail support screws (6
total)
JM-N-36 Drive Bar
JM-N-47A Movable Contact Assembly
Microswitch with frame
JM-N-89A Fuse Holder Assembly
complete with cover cap
JM-N-89CO Fuse Holder cover
cap only
JM-N-120 Drive Bar
Screw (a/k/a JM-N-311)
JM-N-121 Upper Door
Screws (set of 4) a/k/a JM-N-304
JM-N-122 Left side
screws,(set of 2) for side pull doors, a/k/a JM-N-309
JM-N-123 Left and Right
side screws (set of 4) for Top Pull doors;
Right
side of side pull doors (set of 2), a/k/a JM-N-302
JM-N-124 Feed Spring
JM-N-130C Microswitch with
color wire leads and quick connects
JM-N-130H Microswitch
Harness only
JM-N-130CH Microswitch plus
Harness (JM-N-130C plus JM-N-130CH)
JM-N-132 Solenoid Coil
JM-N-133 Solenoid Coil
JM-N-134 Solenoid
Plunger Bottom Bumper
JM-N-135 Electronic
Control Module
JM-N-136 Solenoid Coil
Bracket
JM-N-137 Solenoid
Plunger Stop Bracket
JM-N-138 Solenoid
Plunger Top Bumper
JM-N-139 Blue Microfuse
with leads (Low coil)
JM-N-140 Green
Microfuse with leads (Hi coil)
JM-N-150 Elevating Spring
JM-N-151 Wire Cable Tywrap
JM-N-152 Wire Holder with screw hole
JM-N-219 Solenoid Coil and Mounting Bracket Assembly
JM-N-220 Lower Door
with pull (specify top or side pull)
JM-N-221 Drive Bar
Inner Guide Rail with four (4) #5-40 tapped holes
JM-N-222 Drive Bar
Outer Guide Rail with four (4) 0.125” holes
JM-N-223 Base 90 degree
Left Rail Support with slot
JM-N-224 Base 90 degree
Right Rail Support
JM-N-225 Lock Holddown
Twin Peaks with oval adjustment slot
JM-N-226 Door Lock :
Offset Adjusting Bracket Z-shape with two (2) #4-40 tapped
holes and one (1)
#.062 hole for spring
JM-N-22 7 Staple Guide
Pusher Stop U-shape with 90 deg bend top flag
and two (2) 0.113”
thru holes
JM-N-228 Pusher
JM-N-229 Feed Spring
Retaining D-Clip
JM-N-230 Staple Guide
Frame six #4-40 tap holes, 2# .JM-N-102 thru
JM-N-231 Main Housing
Frame with JM-N-18 holes
JM-N-232 Contact Frame
with adjusting knob screw
JM-N-233 Push Rod
Bracket
JM-N-234 Inner
spring-loaded self-clear Core with two (2) bends, two (2) shears
and one (1) tapped 4-40 hole for pusher stop
JM-N-235 Outer sliding
Staple Guide Core with two (2 ) bends, 2 shears, and 2 4-40 tapped
holes
JM-N-236 Decorative
Satin Finish Base Cover
JM-N-237 Stapling Head
Base Plate- No clincher, no satin cover
JM-N-238 Clincher Die
(anvil) Mounting Plate
JM-N-239 Lock Pivot
JM-N-240 Base Pivot
Screw
JM-N-241 Feed Spr4ng
Roller
JM-N-242 Feed Spring
Roll Pin
JM-N-243 Steel Push Rod
(for pop-out loading)
JM-N-244 Soft-touch cap
for pop-out loading rod above
JM-N-245 Thread lock
glue, temporary type
LIST OF SCREWS;
JM-N-300 Microswitch
Screws, 2 per set
JM-N-301 Clincher
Die Screws, 2 per set
JM-N-302 Outer Guide
Screws, 6 per set
Door Lock Screws, 2 per set
Elevating Spring Screw, 1 each
Pusher Stop Screw, 1 each
Door Screws:
for Top-Pull
doors use 4 total: 2 on left side and 2 on right side
for Side-Pull
doors use 2 on right side
(see P/N JM-N-309
below for left side
JM-N-303 Underside
Stapling Head Base Front Screws (secures satin cover to base)
JM-N-304 Upper Door
Screws, 4 per set
JM-N-305 Lower Rail
Support Screws, 6 per set (3 right, 3 left side)
JM-N-307 Solenoid
Bracket Screws, 4 per set
JM-N-308 Bottom
Stapler Head Mounting Screws
JM-N-309 Left Side
"Side Pull" Door Screws, 2 per set
JM-N-311 Drive Bar
Top Screw, 1 each
JM-N-312 Contact
Frame Screw, 1 each
JM-N-313 Impact
Attenuator Screw, 1 each
JM-N-314 Special
Longer Clincher Die Screws for Clam Shell and other raised
applications.
JM-N-315 Special
Brass Plunger Bumper Screw, l each
JM-N-316A Front Cover
Screws, 4 per set
JM-N-316B Rear Cover
Screws, 4 per set
JM-N-317 Special
Torx Screws for tamper-proof mounted items
Patented and patents pending.
Specifications and availability subject to change without notice or
obligation.
Staplex is a registered trademark of
The Staplex Company.
© 2001 The Staplex Company, Inc.,
Brooklyn, New York 11232-1695 USA
www.staplex.com
SJM-1N Rev. 4/26/01
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